Zip It Up! A Beginner’s Guide to Zippers in Bag Making
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A practical guide, with a closer look at No. 5 zipper tape
If you’ve ever found yourself thinking that fitting a zip is scary, then you’re not alone. Zips can feel a bit daunting at first, but once you’ve used them a time or two, you’ll find yourself reaching for them again and again.
They’re one of those skills that feels like a big leap — but it’s a leap well worth taking.
Why zips matter in bag making
While simple closures like magnetic snaps are quick and easy to install, adding a zip instantly gives your bag a more professional finish. Zips don’t just look good — they also make your bag more secure and, funnily enough, they actually help give it structure.
Whether it’s a No. 5 zip tape used for a recessed zip on the main compartment, or a No. 3 closed-end dress zip for an internal pocket, a zip can elevate a bag from homemade to handcrafted.
Understanding zipper types for bags
No. 5 zipper tape with nylon teeth
The “No. 5” refers to the size of the teeth — 5mm — which gives the zip a sturdy, confidence-inspiring feel without being bulky.
Bobbin Girl sells No. 5 continuous zipper tape that’s 1.25" (32mm) wide, with nylon teeth that have the look of metal but are much easier to sew over. This means smoother stitching and far less risk of broken needles, making the whole process much less stressful.
Each yard comes with three matching zipper pulls, allowing you to cut exactly what you need and finish your zip neatly. These zips are ideal for main bag closures and totes, but they also work beautifully for pockets when you want something more substantial than a finer zip.
Metal zippers
Metal zips are gorgeous and very sturdy, making them perfect when the zip is a visible design feature or when you want to add a touch of luxury to a structured bag. They aren’t quite as forgiving as nylon teeth when sewing, so a little extra care is needed, but used thoughtfully they can look absolutely stunning.
Continuous zipper tape
Continuous zipper tape is an economical and flexible option. You buy it by the yard, cut it to the length you need, and add your own zip pulls. This is especially useful when you’re making multiple bags, need custom sizing, or don’t want to compromise with a zip that’s almost the right length.
Because No. 5 zipper tape is continuous, you can easily create a stopper by sewing back and forth across the tape, or add zipper tabs. Tabs not only look lovely but also help reduce bulk in seams, giving a neater finish.
Where and how to use zips in bags
Recessed zips
Recessed zips sit below the top edge of the bag and create a clean, professional finish. They’re a popular choice for handbags and totes where you want the contents to be secure but still easily accessible.
Top zips
Top zips are sewn directly into the top seam of a bag. They work particularly well for pouches and boxy bags and are often a good option for beginners.
Zipped pockets
Whether placed on the inside or outside of a bag, a zipped pocket adds both security and style. They’re ideal for keeping smaller items safe and easy to find.
Tips for sewing with zippers
Use a zipper foot
A zipper foot allows you to stitch close to the teeth without fighting the bulk of the zip, helping you achieve a neat, even finish.
Secure the zip before sewing
Using double-sided tape to hold the zip in place can make a huge difference. It prevents shifting and keeps everything aligned as you sew.
Add zip tabs
Zip tabs at each end help neaten the finish and reduce bulk in the seams. They’re a small detail, but one that makes construction easier and the finished bag look more polished.
Make it pretty!
Zips aren’t just functional — they can be decorative too. Choosing a contrasting zip tape adds a pop of colour, while gold or rose-gold teeth bring a touch of luxury. Matching your zip pulls to your bag hardware creates a cohesive, well-considered look.
At Bobbin Girl, we stock a lovely selection of zipper tape and pulls in silver and rainbow finishes so you can match your zip to your bag’s personality perfectly.
Happy bag making,
Bobbin Girl x